Russian Dangers

Since my arrival this January to Russia, it has been quite cold here. For example, the high for today is -12 Celsius [5F] (or -19C [-3F] windchill factor). Tomorrow's forecast doesn't look much better, -14C and -21C windchill. Due to the sub-zero temperatures, there has been a build up of ice everywhere. I have had a recent sense of paranoia of being impaled by an icicle. I keep flashing back to a number of horror movies I've seen where people are impaled them. With some of them being over two feet in length, hanging from the rooftop edges many stories up, one can understand why I might want to be a little more careful. I now choose to walk at least a few extra feet out, away from the building as I make my way about the city.

Drivers in Russia are as crazy as in winter as they are in summer. They still drive far too fast. On the walk to my study center today, one driver slammed on his brakes two times, skidding each, after realizing he was plowing through a crosswalk. I'm lucky I was paying attention. The coup de grâce of all my horseless carriage stories is from Moscow. While crossing the street in a crosswalk not more than one block from my apartment, an ambulance came barreling out of nowhere and nearly struck me. What was the driver to do, hit me and then put me in the back of his vehicle?! I know that there is an economic crisis, but do they need business that badly?

So far I've successfully avoided both of the aforementioned dangers. While the various dangers of Russia might seem bad, they are relatively easy to avoid if you pay attention and keep your head on straight.

Vladimir Weather Information:
http://www.accuweather.com/world-index-forecast.asp?partner=accuweather&traveler=0&locCode=ASI|RU|RS087|VLADIMIR&metric=1

I Wish You A Merry Christmas

I Wish You A Merry Christmas (С новым годом!)
I have a friend in Russia who just loves to sing (quite well I might add). They previously asked me to help them find the lyrics to some popular American Christmas songs. I found the most perfect gift to bring them from America. I decided on a book of traditional American carols (it even came with a CD with the music to all of the songs!) After giving it to them, they excitedly opened it up and were curious as to how the tune went for each carol. Of course they could just go home and listen to the disc that came with the book, but it is not the same and they would have to wait to listen. In America, I might be more reluctant than to open up right there and begin to sing on the street, but in Russia, I could care less. People seem to be less judgmental here. My friend was so pleased with the gift and enjoyed listening to me sing the various carols. I had fun seeing that they were so pleased with the gift and sharing a part of my American culture. Being here is not only about me learning about Russia, but about Russians learning about America. It is a bilateral cultural exchange.

Alcohol

According to Walking on Ice, by Frederick Andersen, 5% of Russians are alcoholics (p.45). While this figure may be less shocking than you expect, the following statistics are. "On a national average, each adult drinks the equivalent of over 38 liters of 100 proof vodka a year. Take out many women and a surprising number of men who drink a little, if at all, the rest must have it running in their veins. With populist politicians pushing for cheap or free vodka, it seems as if some politicians would like to keep the people forever in this debasing form of self-imposed slavery. To me it is more than a fraternal thing, but a way to pull the others down so all are equally dead." (Walking on Ice by Frederick Andersen, p.44)

While drinking in moderation is one thing, drinking in Russia by some individuals can be taken to excess. Walk around a Russian city and you will son tons of бабушки (Russian grandmothers), but where are the men? Life expectancy for males is shocking: 59.19 years. Compare it with an average life expectancy of 73.1 years for females and you realize that there is something wrong. Where are the дедушки (Russian grandfathers)? Wouldn't it be great if they were there to nurture and support their families, provide wisdom or to tell their grandchildren how lucky they are with the abundance they now have as compared with the Soviet era. Of course every country has its own problems. In order for Russia to continue to grow and prosper, it may finally need to deal with its alcoholism.

Life Expectancy Statistics Source: CIA World Factbook - Russia
https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/rs.html

A Better Way of Life?

"Some Russians are amazed that Americans work so hard and so long. To them, we work hard to earn lots of money so we can spend it on entertainment, eating out, traveling, buying things. Money is king. The American weekend can be a hectic time. In Russia it is quite different."

"My friend and his family, for example, spend their weekends outside of Moscow in their dacha, their country cottage that they rent for sixty-five dollars a month (in 1995). They pump water at the community pump and bring it to the house in a bucket and go to the toilet in the outhouse forty-seven steps out the back. They raise tomatoes and lettuce, and it is so quiet, he says you can hear the vegetables grow. There is no phone for disturbing phone calls from friends and they are out of range for cell phones. There is electricity, but not enough, so time to fix shashlik over an open fire and enjoy it with friends and talk about important or frivolous things without the intrusion of a television. It is the way life should be, at least on weekends."

"Quality of life is not about things, it is about friends and the time to enjoy them."

I think that last line really sums up the Russian way of life. The emphasis of quality over quantity is something I have really grown to appreciate about the Russians and I have taken it to heart myself. We should appreciate those around us and make sure that it is known to them and not focus on the acquisition of possessions that is all to prevalent in our capitalist society.

Excerpts from Walking on Ice: An American Businessman in Russia by Frederick Andersen, p.50

T-Shirt Love

I've come to realize that I'm a big fan of T-shirts. I never really thought of how many I actually have, but from looking in my dresser and closet, I've realized I have quite a few. After browsing through my many photos albums, I found a recurring theme in the T-shirts that I wear. A lot of my favorite photos are ones in which I am wearing a T-shirt referring to a geographic location I have visited or its emblem or logo. The irony of the situation is that I'm never really wearing a T-shirt depicting the exact location I'm in at that moment. Maybe it's that I don't want to look like a tourist. Maybe there is a longing inside me to return to the location depicted on my shirt and the shirt reminds me of the good times I spent there. Maybe it's a little of both or even something else. Anyways, feel free to browse through my photos and see for yourself!

In Moskva, Russia wearing my NorCal T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30523797&l=4b499&id=22500885

In Moskva, Russia wearing my Sevilla NO8DO T-Shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30555931&l=95d79&id=22500885

In Lisboa, Portugal wearing my NorCal T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30253965&l=3690f&id=22500885

In Gibraltar wearing my Spain T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30226418&l=fc6d6&id=22500885

In Grinnell, Iowa wearing my San Diego T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=12087294&l=6b5a2&id=22500885

In Sacramento, California wearing my Moskva T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30555162&l=6a744&id=22500885

In Grinnell, Iowa wearing my Washington, D.C. T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=12080272&l=e45a4&id=22500885

In Sevilla, Spain wearing my Spain T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30278219&l=39b74&id=22500885

In Des Moines, Iowa wearing my NorCal T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30233162&l=2fa7f&id=22500885

In Sacramento, California wearing my Grinnell T-shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30126784&l=37d89&id=22500885

In Washington, D.C. wearing my Sevilla NO8DO T-Shirt
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30539979&l=a3eb8&id=22500885



Me at the California State Fair
in Sacramento, among corn stalks
like you would find in Grinnell,
Iowa, wearing my T-shirt from
Moscow, Russia.

Dome Architecture Around the World

After my travels around the world, I have grown to appreciate different types of architecture. Of particular interest to me have been the dome structures of churches and government buildings.

Here I would like to contrast a few structures that I have encountered first-hand and others that I simply find intriguing.

Here are some questions for you to meditate on as you go through the images:

• What do you think? Which buildings do you find to be most similar?

• What other dome-style architecture do you know of that seems similar to the forthcoming?

• Do you have a favorite? Which styles and periods of architecture do you prefer?

Des Moine's Iowa State Capitol, Photo 1 of 2

Des Moine's Iowa State Capitol, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iowa_State_Capitol

Saint Petersburg's St. Isaac's Cathedral, Photo 1 of 2

Saint Petersburg's St. Isaac's Cathedral, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Isaac%27s_Cathedral
Inspired by Villa la Rotunda of Vicenza, Italy


Villa la Rotunda of Vicenza, Italy, Photo 1 of 2

Villa la Rotunda of Vicenza, Italy, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_La_Rotonda

California's Auburn Courthouse, Photo 1 of 2

California's Auburn Courthouse, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auburn,_California

San Francisco City Hall, Photo 1 of 2

San Francisco City Hall, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Francisco_City_Hall
Inspired by Les Invalides of Paris, France

Les Invalides of Paris, France, Photo 1 of 2

Les Invalides of Paris, France, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Invalides
Inspired by The Vatican's St. Peter's Basilica

The Vatican's St. Peter's Basilica, Photo 1 of 2

The Vatican's St. Peter's Basilica, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Peter%27s_Basilica

Moscow's St. Basil's Cathedral, Photo 1 of 2

Moscow's St. Basil's Cathedral, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Basil%27s_Cathedral

Suzdal's Transfiguration Cathedral, Photo 1 of 3

Suzdal's Wooden Dome Architecture, Photo 2 of 3

Suzdal's Wooden Dome Architecture
Suzdal, Russia, Photo 3 of 3
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzdal

Bogolyubovo's Dome Architecture, Photo 1 of 2

Bogolyubovo's Dome Architecture
Bogolyubovo, Russia, Photo 2 of 2
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bogolyubovo

Once again, here are the questions I posed at the beginning of my post:

• What do you think? Which buildings do you find to be most similar?

• What other dome-style architecture do you know of that seems similar to the aforementioned?

• Do you have a favorite? Which styles and periods of architecture do you prefer?

Remarkable Russian R & R

It was the last week of my fall semester studying abroad in Vladimir. I took Thursday off to travel to Moscow, spend time with my friend, Natasha, and visit some of the remaining sights I had not seen yet. She cooks so well. Every time I visit, I feel like I am at home, eating my grandma’s cooking. I enjoyed a delicious casserole she prepared and then went about my business. I had to travel across the city by metro and walk about 1.5km to get to the Armed Forces Museum. Making a wrong turn, I was pleasantly surprised to end up on Pushkin square and see a beautiful Christmas tree. Orienting myself, I easily navigated to the museum. It was impressive. The museum was built during the Soviet times to commemorate the accomplishments and history of the military. The museum continues to function today with limited additions pertaining to post-Soviet armed forces activity. My favorite exhibition was the wreckage of the American U-2 spy plane which was shot down in the 60s.

Natasha and I met again and we decided to go ice skating. We went Gorky Park. At first she was hesitant to skate, fearing that she might fall, but I assured her that I would not let that happen. After enjoying a brief snack, we headed out on the ice. The first time around was slow, but as time went on, it was no longer so difficult. During my visit, there were a number of coincidences, perhaps the most surprising being that Natasha happened to see a student from her University group that she had not seen in over 5 years! Heading back home, it was late. We had big plans for the following day. I wanted to visit the Tretyakov Gallery again. Since my last visit, I had greater exposure to Russian art and I also knew that the religious icon of Vladimir was located in the Tretyakov. Natasha later joined me there later on. It was great sharing our knowledge of the artwork and learning even more. We left the Tretyakov to eat dinner. We ate in an upscale mall not far from the American embassy and listened to a pianist.

After dinner, we left for the Gosudarstvii Teatr Kinoaktiorov. This theatre is famous for its actors, many of which are also TV and movie stars. We watched a comedy that was set in the 19th century about marriage between different economic classes. The language used in the play was fascinating. They used a special form which adds an “s” to the end of certain words in a sentence to denote respect when speaking to others. This style of speech was typical of the era. Seeing an advertisement for a special hot wine at the skating rink, we had decided to prepare some of our own at home. It reminded me of a more delicious apple cider. We stayed up late talking and enjoying each other’s company.

Early the next morning I returned to Vladimir. For the first time since summer, I decided to travel by bus since there was not a train leaving any time soon. I prefer the train because in summer, I once spent over 7 hours on a bus from Moscow to Vladimir due to traffic jams. The bus was only 32 rubles cheaper than the train and it was packed. I sat uncomfortably for four hours, ineffectively sleeping for brief spurts of time. I had to return to Vladimir on Saturday because I had my oral proficiency interview to evaluate my level of spoken Russian.

That evening, some of my friends and I wanted to celebrate the conclusion of our program so we gathered and split a bottle of Putinka. We also had delicious Russian crackers, caviar and cake. After our little gathering, I left for the center. With perfect timing, my coworker had called me and invited me to go clubbing with her. We went to a small discotheque in the center. The DJ there was playing my favorite music, Eurodance. We toasted with champagne and hit the dance floor. I’m glad to know such wonderful people here in Russia. It makes it just that much harder to fly home to America.

Multilingual

Right now I feel that my brain is like a hard drive. It has been partitioned into two parts: one partition with what is the English language and the second with what is 'the other'. Until recently, 'the other' had been Spanish. When studying the Spanish language, I learned new grammar concepts, rules and vocabulary as if they were simply what was not native to me. For example, when speaking Spanish and thinking of the word for 'basketball', initшally my mind might think of the word in my native tongue and since this was not what is was looking for, it would revert to what is 'the other' and choose 'el baloncesto' instead. Previously, this was not an issue, but since I've started learning Russian, this system has not been functioning as well. It is no longer an option for my mind to alternate between two languages, for it now has a second foreign language option to contend with. To continue with the hard drive analogy: what I've noticed is that my mind will seemingly overwrite the words I've previously learned in Spanish with the equivalent in Russian. Of course this is not the case. My Spanish listening and comprehension skills are as good as they ever were. After memorizing a new word in Russian, it's Spanish equivalent becomes more difficult to recall. When I wish to speak in Spanish, my mind has difficulties switching from Russian to Spanish and back again with ease. A former Russian professor of mine has described this phenomenon as Russian eating other languages. She had previously studied French and Spanish. After an intensive study of Russian, the language burrows deep into the mind and consumes what other languages that may reside there. I'm going to everything in my power to keep that from happening!

I believe I've determined the solution to this quagmire. As I've stated previously, it's like my mind has been partitioned into two parts. What I need to do is create a third partition. I need to focus on dividing what is 'the other' or foreign in my mind into two parts. While I wish that this was as easy as partitioning a hard drive and then loading my data on to it, it is not that simple. My solution is to forget English altogether, for the time being. I will focus on going back and forth between Russian and Spanish in my mind until it is as fluid as the change from Russian to English and back. I've purchased a Russian-Spanish categorical dictionary to help me accomplish this. Thus far, this method has been a success. I'm learning new Russian words based upon my understanding of the Spanish equivalent. I'm even learning some new Spanish words that I only previously knew in Russian! I only hope that during this partitioning process, my hard drive doesn't crash! We'll see how it goes. Until then, до свидания and hasta luego!

A side note - when listening to Russian radio, it's always exciting to hear a Spanish song. They are played here frequently. I don't always immediately notice that the music is not Russian! I'm excited for the day to come when my Russian is as good as or even better than my Spanish! In any case, I know that both languages will continue to be an important part of my life for many years to come!

Library Complications

Earlier in the semester, I went to get a library card at the central library here in Vladimir. I remembered that I had yet to actually go and get some books because I already have my collection of favorite Russian reference books with me. Since it was a rainy Sunday afternoon and I live on the same block where the library is located, I decided to see what it was like. Upon arriving to the library, I immediately proceded to the front desk and presented my library card. They in turn handed me back my library card as well as a slip that documents which rooms of the library I am in and for what time duration. Continuing on to the second floor, I enter the room of books for foreign language study. I begin to browse the selection, but I am stopped by the librarian who states that I must present my documents in order to be in the room. I do so and everything is in order. I proceed to the Russian as a foreign language section to look for books. As I browse, I am stopped by the librarian and informed that this area is off-limits and that I must proceed to the other part of the room. I do as I am told and then inquire as to how I am to find books. I ask if I may browse the electronic or card catalogs. The librarian tells me that they don't keep these books on record because they are so seldom used. The other librarian then proceeds to take me back to the off-limits section where I was just minutes earlier and let me browse at my leisure. After finding three books that suit my fancy, I returned to the front desk. I was informed that I would have to pay 200 rubles as a deposit for the books. Furthermore, I would need to fill out a series of forms with my contact information: name, birth year, address, phone number; all information that I had previously given them when applying for my library card. After a series of signatures for each of the books, the deposit given and the transaction in general, I was allowed to proceed out of this room. Arriving on the first floor, I presented my documents and was given clearance to leave the building.

While the Russian system may seem complicated, I give it credit. I favor it to the Spanish library system at the Universidad de Sevilla. There I was not allow to browse the books and simply restricted to an archaic card catalog system and a seemingly nonsensical electronic search database. Even, after all of the paperwork, this Vladimir libarary functions effectively and the librarians there are generally very friendly.

Burger Time

Continuing in my theme of firsts from my previous blog post, upon my return from Волгоград, I was really craving a hamburger. While I really try not to indulge myself with foods from home while abroad, it was late, my hostmom was asleep and I knew that there was a 24-hour burger joint around the corner. I layered myself up with coats and headed out into the cold. Seeing the menu at Мистер Гамбургер, I was delighted to see familiar names, although they were written in Cyrillic. I decided to go for the чизбургер (cheeseburger) and a coke. In typical fast food fashion, the fine people at Mister Gamburger give me my tray and I'm off. Sitting down at a nearby available table, I hastily unwrap the burger. While the bun looks a little strange, that doesn't stop me from biting right in. What do I think after my first bite?: This tastes nothing like a hamburger! There is something known as бутерброд in Russian, which is roughly equivalent to an open-faced sandwich. This чизбургер tasted nothing like a grilled burger loaded with deliciously unhealthy American cheddar cheese, but more like a toasted bun with provolone cheese and a slice of deli meat. While the latter description may sound appetizing for some, the taste left something to be desired. There is another burger chain in town, MacKing. While I am really craving a good burger right now, I don't know if I want to risk my life on some unholy pseudo-fusion of McDonalds and Burger King at МакКинг. I guess I'll just have to wait another two months before I have my big, fat, juicy cheeseburger... maybe even with bacon and avocado!