Friday, February 27, 2009

Living A Communist's Life - Collective Housing

I live in a Soviet-era apartment building and not just any. It was built as housing for the worker families of the ХимЗавод, or chemical factory, of Vladimir. My host mother's family moved into the apartment shortly after its construction, in 1935. She has lived here her entire life... and so many others lived here too. During the Soviet times, the Communists decided that they wanted to collectivize life for its citizens. This ensured the equality of life.


In the collectivization of housing, many families would often live in the same apartment, as mandated by the government. For example, in the 3 room, 1 bathroom, 1 kitchen apartment I presently live in, 2 families consisting of a total of 10 people would live together.

To realize that my room is intended to house a family of 4 is shocking. I estimate the total size of the apartment to amount to no more than 1000 square feet. While the room is large, I wouldn't expect more than 2 people to live in it at any one time.


While it was an era of communism, there still was not true equality for all during the Soviet times. I was surprised to find the director of the chemical factory, himself, used to live here in this very room. I was furthered surprised to find this was one of four rooms he was allotted for his family.


Collective housing also had other advantages for the Bolsheviks. Living in close quarters allowed the different families to make sure that everyone was a devoted communist and would not think or say anything to the contrary. For example, under communism, most churches were closed and the Bible was outlawed. Possessing the Bible was a serious offense, possibly resulting in your sudden disappearance.

In a time where disobeying the will of the government could result in you being sent to the gulag, a series of working camps mainly located in Siberia where many people were worked to death, you would be taking a serious risk in possessing the Bible. Also, to speak ill of Lenin or Stalin was considered blasphemy because for all intents and purposes of the Soviet people, Lenin is God and Stalin is his disciple.


To further describe the apartment in which I live, at the time of its construction, there was no hot water, no gas, no central heating, no washing machine and no refrigerator. These were installed only later.

Water had to be heated on the stove. Since there was no gas, in order to use the stove, you had to use another fuel source, such as wood. To this day, there is still no central heating for the apartment itself. Hot water is routed from a central city water heating plant that closely resembles the structure of a nuclear silo and transported to apartments across the city using a series of above-ground pipes. This hot water is delivered to apartments not only for use by its inhabitants, but also fed through a series of water radiators which keep the apartment warm.

On the radiators in my apartment, there is no way to regulate the temperature of the radiator. If there happens to be a problem at the central water heating plant of the city or a repair needs to be made to one of the many pipes supplying hot water to your apartment, you are without hot water. This has already happened to me twice, once in fall and again in winter. During these times, it is important to keep the windows closed tightly and use an extra blanket. If bathing, you need to heat water on the stove and take a bucket bath.


Clothing had to be washed by hand. In most Russian apartments, a special rack can be found in the bathroom. While this may look like a towel rack, it is actually much more. Its structure is actually a series of pipes through which hot water is running. This can be useful in order to dry your clothes more quickly. If you have a lot of clothes, you can also use your radiators as another location in which to dry your clothing.

Food had to be kept on the window sill to stay cool during the winters or preserved to be kept during the summers. While there were not the many luxuries that you would find in the West during this era, there was, however, electricity and indoor plumbing.

Arborescent Study Abroad

The study abroad experience is like being a tree. You arrive to the country as a small sapling, planted in a foreign environment. You began to grow roots and become acclimated to your surroundings. Your branches grow and extend as you reach out to the world around you. You begin to sprout leaves in order to photosynthesize as much nourishing knowledge as possible as you can. You hope your broadening trunk will give you a firm grounding to weather the storms that may come to impede your development. With time, your core also grows and distance between the rings indicates the growth you have made. Once you have become established in your environment, you find it difficult to consider existence somewhere else. You don't want to be uprooted and forced to acclimate once again. No matter where you are, you can always look back at the your rings and remember the growth you made during that time.

A Week of Russian Cuisine

Day 1: FRIDAY
Breakfast: сырники (curd fritter / cottage cheese pancakes), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (open-faced sandwich with butter and cheese), виноградный сок (grape juice)
Lunch: суп (soup); хлеб (bread); огурцы с лукой; (cucumber and onion salad); курица (chicken), капуста (cabbage); блины с яблоками (Russian apple pancakes); пирог (pie)
Dinner: сосиски с кетчупом (hot dogs with ketchup), капуста (cabbage), сырники (curd fritter / cottage cheese pancakes), пиво

Day 2: SATURDAY
Breakfast: гречка с молоком и сахаром (buckwheat porridge with milk and sugar), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (bread with butter and cheese), виноградный сок (grape juice)
Lunch: суп с фаршем, лукой, картошкой, морковью (soup with meatballs, onions, potatoes and carrots); хлеб (bread), огурцы с лукой и майонезом (cucumber and onion sald with mayonnaise), курица с кетчупом (chicken with ketchup), блины с фаршем и маслом (meat and butter pancake wrap), чай (tea)
Dinner: макароны с мясом (pasta with meat), соленья (pickles), бутерброды с мясом (open-faced sandwich with meat), чёрный хлеб (black bread), торт (cake), пирог (pie), пиво, водка, яблочный и апельсинный сок (apple and orange juice), чай (tea)

Day 3: SUNDAY
Breakfast: rice puffs с молоком (with milk), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (open-faced sandwich with butter and cheese), виноградный сок (grape juice), чай (tea), печенье (crackers)
Lunch: картофель печеночный с сыром (baked potato with cheese), пепси (Pepsi), суп с фаршем, лукой, картошкой, морковью (soup with meatballs, onions, potatoes and carrots); хлеб (bread), винегрет (beet salad), мясо с рисом и острым соусом (meat with rice and hot sauce)
Dinner: пирог (pie)

Day 4: MONDAY
Breakfast: пельмени со сметаной (meat dumplings with sour cream), апельсинный сок (orange juice)
Lunch: салат с помидором и огурцом (tomato and cucumber salad), лапша (noodle soup), пицца (pizza), пирожки (pastries), чай (tea)
Dinner: суп с фаршем, лукой, картошкой, морковью (soup with meatballs, onions, potatoes and carrots); хлеб (bread), огурцы с лукой и майонезом (cucumber and onion salad with mayonnaise), мясо с рисом (meat with rice), чай (tea)

Day 5: TUESDAY
Breakfast: каша с бананом (hot cooked cereal with banana slices), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (open-faced sandwiches with butter and cheese), апельсинный сок (orange juice)
Lunch: щи с острым соусом (cabbage soup with hot sauce); хлеб (bread); две кутлеты с рысом, маслом и острым соусом (two meat cutlets with rice, butter and hot sauce); пирог (pie); чай (tea); вода (water)
Dinner: суп (soup), корейские моркови (korean carrots), куриная котлета (chicken cutlet), картофель-фри с острым кетчупом из чили (french fries with hot chili ketchup), круассаны (croissants)

Day 6: WEDNESDAY
Breakfast: каша (hot cooked cereal), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (open-faced sandwiches with buter and cheese), апельсинный сок (orange juice)
Lunch: винегрет (beet salad), борщ (borscht beat-soup), гуляш с макаронами и острым соусом (goulash with pasta and hot sauce), пицца (pizza), пирог (pie), сок (juice), чай (tea), вода (water)
Dinner: суп (soup), овощи: помидоры, баклажан, перцы (vegetables: tomatoes, eggplant, peppers), курица с острым соусом (chicken with hot sauce), круассаны (croissants), чай (tea)

Day 7: THURSDAY
Breakfast: каша (hot cooked cereal), бутерброды с маслом и сыром (open-faced sandwich with butter and cheese), апельсинный сок (orange juice)
Lunch: салат из капусты (cabbage salad), щи с хлебом (cabbage soup with bread), картофельное пюре (mashed potatoes), котлета (meat cutlet), вода (water)
Dinner: суп с хлебом (soup with bread), курица (chicken), картофель-фри (french fries), чай (tea), вода (water)

Note: Every aforementioned reference to hot sauce with food is my own personal twist on Russian cuisine and is not typical. In hopes of making Russian food more flavorful, I've eaten it with three different hot sauces and well as curry powder. I found that hot sauce with щи (cabbage soup) isn't as tasty as I would hope, although when hot sauce is added to meat cutlets and rice, it is a match made in heaven.

Russians generally find hot sauce to be too spicy. The hottest food they eat is usually Georgian food, specifically шашлык (shashlik kebab) with a spicy sauce.

I have had two different homestays during my time here in Russia. Not every Russian family eats all of the typical Russian foods. In my first homestay, I never ate каша (hot cooked cereal) or пельмени (meat dumplings). In my present homestay, I have never eaten плов (pilaff rice dish) or чёрный хлеб (black bread).

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Vladimir, Russia - KORA Center for Russian Language

In case your curious about what I actually study while I'm here in Vladimir, I'll break it down for you.

I take seven classes, which total to 20 hours of study per week. All classes are conducted entirely in Russian.
Грамматика (grammar): 5 hours per week
Фонетика (phonetics): 2 hours per week
Практика Речь (speaking): 5 hours per week
Русская Истрория (Russian history): 2 hours per week
Художественный Текст (literature): 2 hours per week
Искусство Письма (writing): 2 hours per week
СМИ (current events): 2 hours per week

Our Russian study center, KORA, is located in a technikum. The program rents out a number of rooms on the third floor of the building, which we use as our study space.

Lunch is included by the program. We dine on authentic Russian food in the cafeteria of the technikum.

On Friday, we have excursions to points of interest both near and far. Some of the excursions this semester include Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Murom and Sochi. It is mandatory that we speak Russian at all times while on excursions and all guides speak only Russian with us.

In addition to classes and excursions, there are extra-curriculars. Folklore is an extra class conducted every other week to expose us to Russian culture through dance and music.

Kruglii Stol or Russian-American club is a round-table discussion with our Russian counterparts at the linguistics university about prearranged topics.

Internships give us on site experience in various Russian organizations.

Basketball is played with the Russians every week as a good way to get out some extra energy and exercise.

We are allotted two personal days every semester, which can be used for personal travel. This is a wonderful way to see more of Russia that you otherwise wouldn't have the chance to see with the program. Combined with a three or four-day weekend, these days provide a great opportunity to travel throughout Russia.