Reflections on Russia - To Pee or not to Pee
Shortly after arriving in Russia, you will notice one striking different after visiting "the facilities." This WC is nothing like what you've seen in America. If you have to go to the bathroom in Russia, you had better cross your fingers, pray to God and hope for the best. Once you have finally managed to locate a bathroom, you'll be surprised to find that this facility utilized for a basic necessity of human existence is not бесплатный. Oh no, you will have to pay a small fee to use the bathroom, usually ranging from 10 to 20 rubles. While this is less than a dollar, it is an added inconvenience. Once you pay, you expect to get your money's worth. You imagine a clean stall, with seats covers, toilet paper, a sink with hot running water, soap and maybe even some papers towels to dry your hands. Not so fast! From experience, I would have to say the average bathroom stall is dirty than expected. The toilet seats are often made out of cheap plastic, if you are lucky enough to have a toilet seat at all and seat covers are generally out of the question. Many times you will find that the bathrooms don't even have toilet paper, so be prepared and bring your own just in case! On occasion, there is only cold water to wash your hands with and there is no guarantee that there will be soap or something to dry your hands on. If you are lucky enough to be in a city with Western restaurants such as Starbucks or McDonalds, you are in luck! While I advice eating as much Russian cuisine as possible while abroad, these restaurants often have nicer restrooms than many of their Russian counterparts. My Moroccan friend once described McDonalds to me as being the "American embassy." For those seeking a bathroom meeting their Western expectations, in these "American embassies" you can find your own slice of America and go about your business as usual. Next time you use the facilities in America, be grateful. You have no idea how bad it could actually be. Postscript: It could be even worse than this, in places such as Morocco and China, you may not even have a toilet at all, but just a hole in the ground!
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Fashion Trends or Fashion Statements?
Reflections on Russia - Fashion Trends or Fashion Statements?
After stepping off the plane in Moscow, one of the first things you will notice is that people dress a little differently here in Russia than in other parts of the world. While cosmopolitan cities may have a stricter dress code, per se, the fashion you see here isn't something you'll notice on 5th Avenue of New York or the streets of larger European cities. Maybe it's because I am male, but the first thing that stands out to me is the women. If you took a small sampling of women on the streets of Moscow, you would notice that an overwhelming number of women choose to be in heels as they navigate the city. These aren't the heels of an average women's dress shoe, but rather stiletto heels that you might expect to see on the dance floor of an upscale club. How the women of Moscow manage to survive the excruciating pain of these inhumane torture devices all day long is beyond me. Aside from heels, there is also another trend among women. There seems to be some unspoken rule that if you choose to wear a skirt, dress, shorts, or anything that shoes a little leg, you are obligated to have hosiery as part of your uniform. While ordinary pantyhose might come to mind, you will be surprised at the variety of hosiery you'll see on the streets. Apparently fishnets are acceptable business attire as I saw them on numerous occasions complementing formal business suits. Since I'm moving upwards anatomically, I'll talk about the brassiere, or the absence thereof. On numerous occasions, myself and fellow program participants observed that many women seem to feel no need for the support of the modern bra. While letting it all hang loose is one option, another popular alternative seems to be the black bra. Women out there may identify with the need to wear a different colored undergarment to match their outfit in a given day, but this trend doesn't seem to have reached all the women of Russia. This became all so apparent after seeing many women wear see through lace blouses. Gentlemen, please don't become all too excited in a hurry. This style of dress is sported by not only younger women, but also the geriatric crowd.
Leaving the women behind, speaking about men's fashion is a whole different story. The first thing a Westerner will notice is the distinctly different hairstyle popular among men. Some may call it a rat-tail, others may refer to it as a mullet, but to describe it briefly, many men wear their hair shorter and spikey on top and longer and unshaven on the back of the neck. Those familiar with the famous, or perhaps infamous, Russian pop star, Дима Билан, will know exactly what I'm talking about. Dima is just one celebrity figure who also wears his hair in this style. While in the metro, you will observe that many men will dress up in their own way that might seem unfamiliar to foreigners: the uniquely patterned and colored dress shirts will be kept unbuttoned, often to expose part of their chest and a Russian Orthodox cross; their pants will fit tightly; and perhaps the most striking thing of all will be just how pointy their dress shoes are! Popular among Russian men are shiny dress shoes imported from Italy that come to a sharp point at the tip of the toe.
Next time you are traveling in Russia or at least at a tourist destination elsewhere in the world where you may encounter Russians, keep in mind these descriptions and you are sure to spot a Russian or two who look just like this. It is important to note that all Russians do not dress in this manner and that most Muscovites dress better than the average American. Furthermore, one should keep in mind that each country and culture has its own fashion trends that may seem very strange and unfamiliar to an outsider. I am not making a judgment, but I simply wanted to comment on a fashion trend I observed among some Russians that deviates strongly from what the average Westerner is accustomed to.
After stepping off the plane in Moscow, one of the first things you will notice is that people dress a little differently here in Russia than in other parts of the world. While cosmopolitan cities may have a stricter dress code, per se, the fashion you see here isn't something you'll notice on 5th Avenue of New York or the streets of larger European cities. Maybe it's because I am male, but the first thing that stands out to me is the women. If you took a small sampling of women on the streets of Moscow, you would notice that an overwhelming number of women choose to be in heels as they navigate the city. These aren't the heels of an average women's dress shoe, but rather stiletto heels that you might expect to see on the dance floor of an upscale club. How the women of Moscow manage to survive the excruciating pain of these inhumane torture devices all day long is beyond me. Aside from heels, there is also another trend among women. There seems to be some unspoken rule that if you choose to wear a skirt, dress, shorts, or anything that shoes a little leg, you are obligated to have hosiery as part of your uniform. While ordinary pantyhose might come to mind, you will be surprised at the variety of hosiery you'll see on the streets. Apparently fishnets are acceptable business attire as I saw them on numerous occasions complementing formal business suits. Since I'm moving upwards anatomically, I'll talk about the brassiere, or the absence thereof. On numerous occasions, myself and fellow program participants observed that many women seem to feel no need for the support of the modern bra. While letting it all hang loose is one option, another popular alternative seems to be the black bra. Women out there may identify with the need to wear a different colored undergarment to match their outfit in a given day, but this trend doesn't seem to have reached all the women of Russia. This became all so apparent after seeing many women wear see through lace blouses. Gentlemen, please don't become all too excited in a hurry. This style of dress is sported by not only younger women, but also the geriatric crowd.
Leaving the women behind, speaking about men's fashion is a whole different story. The first thing a Westerner will notice is the distinctly different hairstyle popular among men. Some may call it a rat-tail, others may refer to it as a mullet, but to describe it briefly, many men wear their hair shorter and spikey on top and longer and unshaven on the back of the neck. Those familiar with the famous, or perhaps infamous, Russian pop star, Дима Билан, will know exactly what I'm talking about. Dima is just one celebrity figure who also wears his hair in this style. While in the metro, you will observe that many men will dress up in their own way that might seem unfamiliar to foreigners: the uniquely patterned and colored dress shirts will be kept unbuttoned, often to expose part of their chest and a Russian Orthodox cross; their pants will fit tightly; and perhaps the most striking thing of all will be just how pointy their dress shoes are! Popular among Russian men are shiny dress shoes imported from Italy that come to a sharp point at the tip of the toe.
Next time you are traveling in Russia or at least at a tourist destination elsewhere in the world where you may encounter Russians, keep in mind these descriptions and you are sure to spot a Russian or two who look just like this. It is important to note that all Russians do not dress in this manner and that most Muscovites dress better than the average American. Furthermore, one should keep in mind that each country and culture has its own fashion trends that may seem very strange and unfamiliar to an outsider. I am not making a judgment, but I simply wanted to comment on a fashion trend I observed among some Russians that deviates strongly from what the average Westerner is accustomed to.
A Short Anecdote about an Acronym you haven't Forgotten
Reflections on Russia - A Short Anecdote about an Acronym you haven't Forgotten
During my first week in Moscow, they made sure to show us around the city. We hopped on a tour bus with Jon, the regular director for Moscow programs and made our way about the city, briefly taking stops at достопримечательности, also known as points of interest. After making brief stops at key tourist destinations such as the Kremlin, Red Square, Christ the Savior, the Peter the Great statue, the Novodevichy Convent and Swan Lake, we came to the Лубянка metro stop, the stop we would get off at every day as we commuted to the Higher School of Economics. Aside from Детский Мир, a famous children's toy store, presently under renovation, one other significant building stands out, the headquarters of the former КГБ. Jon shared an interesting fact with us while on the tour bus: this former KGB building goes eight stories underground, but it was the tallest building in Moscow of its time. It could see all of the way to Vladivostok.
Note: If your Russian geography isn't up to par, Vladivostok is a city in the easternmost part of Russia near Japan, thousands of kilometers away from Moscow. The joke here is that the intelligence of the KGB was so extensive that they could observe any part of Russia in a given instant.
During my first week in Moscow, they made sure to show us around the city. We hopped on a tour bus with Jon, the regular director for Moscow programs and made our way about the city, briefly taking stops at достопримечательности, also known as points of interest. After making brief stops at key tourist destinations such as the Kremlin, Red Square, Christ the Savior, the Peter the Great statue, the Novodevichy Convent and Swan Lake, we came to the Лубянка metro stop, the stop we would get off at every day as we commuted to the Higher School of Economics. Aside from Детский Мир, a famous children's toy store, presently under renovation, one other significant building stands out, the headquarters of the former КГБ. Jon shared an interesting fact with us while on the tour bus: this former KGB building goes eight stories underground, but it was the tallest building in Moscow of its time. It could see all of the way to Vladivostok.
Note: If your Russian geography isn't up to par, Vladivostok is a city in the easternmost part of Russia near Japan, thousands of kilometers away from Moscow. The joke here is that the intelligence of the KGB was so extensive that they could observe any part of Russia in a given instant.
Reflections on Russia - Раз, два, три, четыре...
Reflections on Russia - Раз, два, три, четыре...
Of all the things I thought I would be doing in Москва, the last thing I thought I would be doing is taking dance lessons, but after I considered it, the idea grew on me. In seizing the opportunity to further practice our Russian, a number of my fellow program members and I decided to brave the two-hour ballroom dancing lessons of a strict Russian instructor who only yells... oops, I mean speaks in Russian. Once you get past how direct and forceful spoken Russian sounds when spoken by native-speakers, you realize that people are merely talking and not yelling or angry. In the lesson plan contained a myriad of difference dances, ranging from кадриль, a traditional Russian dance, to the tango. Of the many dances we studied, I would have to say my favorite was the шведский вальс, a waltz that moved at such a rapid pace and contained seemingly endless turns, it made quite for quite an amusing spectacle to see. After having the serious "Russian face" on all day, it was nice to smile, laugh and even be silly. To slow it down a notch, we would dance the медленний вальс and further focus on our footwork, stature and staying in sync with our partner. When taking the lessons seriously, I had the most success at the tango, probably due to my underlying love for Latin music. The most memorable part of the dance lesson experience was our spunky, charismatic, energetic and unrelenting middle-aged female dance instructor. Her bleached platinum blonde hair, tight jeans and seemingly endless supply of indescribable tops along with her unique personality and passion for dance made an impression on all of us. After each lesson, throughout the rest of the day, on into the week and seemingly into eternity, in our heads will always be her voice counting the steps: раз, два, три, четыре....
Of all the things I thought I would be doing in Москва, the last thing I thought I would be doing is taking dance lessons, but after I considered it, the idea grew on me. In seizing the opportunity to further practice our Russian, a number of my fellow program members and I decided to brave the two-hour ballroom dancing lessons of a strict Russian instructor who only yells... oops, I mean speaks in Russian. Once you get past how direct and forceful spoken Russian sounds when spoken by native-speakers, you realize that people are merely talking and not yelling or angry. In the lesson plan contained a myriad of difference dances, ranging from кадриль, a traditional Russian dance, to the tango. Of the many dances we studied, I would have to say my favorite was the шведский вальс, a waltz that moved at such a rapid pace and contained seemingly endless turns, it made quite for quite an amusing spectacle to see. After having the serious "Russian face" on all day, it was nice to smile, laugh and even be silly. To slow it down a notch, we would dance the медленний вальс and further focus on our footwork, stature and staying in sync with our partner. When taking the lessons seriously, I had the most success at the tango, probably due to my underlying love for Latin music. The most memorable part of the dance lesson experience was our spunky, charismatic, energetic and unrelenting middle-aged female dance instructor. Her bleached platinum blonde hair, tight jeans and seemingly endless supply of indescribable tops along with her unique personality and passion for dance made an impression on all of us. After each lesson, throughout the rest of the day, on into the week and seemingly into eternity, in our heads will always be her voice counting the steps: раз, два, три, четыре....
Russian Linear Forms
Reflections on Russia - Russian Linear Forms
In Moscow, if you give anyone an inch, they take a mile, or 1.6 kilometers for that matter. Whether in the metro trying to board the train, testing your fate crossing the street amidst busy traffic where there isn't a переход (pedestrian underpass), or even do something as simple as add more money to your pre-paid phone (which is the norm in Russia), if you hesitate for just one moment, there will be someone there to cut in front of you. Due to the long lines of the Soviet era, Russians have become the masters of standing in line. They can size you up in an instant and if you show weakness, be prepared to wait just that much longer because you haven't even realize that they are now already standing in front of you.
One of the most cutthroat places to queue up for something would have to be anywhere in which you are trying to obtain a ticket. I have countless memories of trying to obtain a museum билет, admission to an art gallery, or something as important as a train ticket I need to get to wherever I am traveling and people will do anything short of pushing you over to get what they want, (well sometimes that happens too). The coup d'gra of line standing is in the metro. As I mentioned earlier, boarding the metro can be difficult, but it doesn't stop here. There are simply so many people in Moscow (12 million officially, but estimates about labor entering the city on weekdays may push the number as high as 18 million), that the metro cannot accomodate the demand. Getting something as essential as a metro pass is not easy, especially near a вокзал where many passengers have just gotten of their trains arriving from other cities. People in these lines are ruthless. You have to be pushy back to ensure that you hold your place in line and are not cut.
The politics of Russian lines goes step further when it comes to the metro escalator. People are to stand on the right if they wish to stand or to walk if they wish to use the left side of the escalator. Usually after going over a переход to transfer from another station, people usually cram up towards the right side of the entrance to the escalator. This is especially true at the переходы where people are transferring to or from the circle line. There are, however, a clever few who move easily on the left as if they are to walk up or down the escalator and may actually do so for some time, but they fake you out and try to cram into whatever small space they can find on a step of an escalator, no matter if there is little room there. Therefore, in defense of your person space, if such a thing exists in Russia, you stand in a staggered manner with one leg on a step of the escalator and another on the step above or below it so as to defend your ability to stand comfortably on the escalator in the spot you rightfully deserve after waiting. This may not seem like such a discomfort, but when you consider the humid heat of the summer or the many layers you may be wearing in winter, the added presence of additional body heat is something that is definitely not welcomed.
After reading these descriptions, you may think that москвичи (Muscovites) are rude and impolite. One thing to keep in perspective is that this is a huge city and people are in a hurry to get where they are going. If you were in a big city like New York, would you be surprised if you found so of the people to be rude... probably not. It is expected that people in big cities will be in a hurry and that they don't want to wait for tourists or the indecisive. Furthermore, while people may be in a hurry, I have found that if you need to ask for directions, people are more than willing to help, even if you are a foreigner. On a few occassions, they even talked at length with me for a few minutes about what I was interested in seeing during my semester of studies. While some may hold that there are too many foreigners in Moscow and that the last thing the москвичи want to do is help another foreigner find his or her way around, from my experience, I have found that only the contrary is true.
In Moscow, if you give anyone an inch, they take a mile, or 1.6 kilometers for that matter. Whether in the metro trying to board the train, testing your fate crossing the street amidst busy traffic where there isn't a переход (pedestrian underpass), or even do something as simple as add more money to your pre-paid phone (which is the norm in Russia), if you hesitate for just one moment, there will be someone there to cut in front of you. Due to the long lines of the Soviet era, Russians have become the masters of standing in line. They can size you up in an instant and if you show weakness, be prepared to wait just that much longer because you haven't even realize that they are now already standing in front of you.
One of the most cutthroat places to queue up for something would have to be anywhere in which you are trying to obtain a ticket. I have countless memories of trying to obtain a museum билет, admission to an art gallery, or something as important as a train ticket I need to get to wherever I am traveling and people will do anything short of pushing you over to get what they want, (well sometimes that happens too). The coup d'gra of line standing is in the metro. As I mentioned earlier, boarding the metro can be difficult, but it doesn't stop here. There are simply so many people in Moscow (12 million officially, but estimates about labor entering the city on weekdays may push the number as high as 18 million), that the metro cannot accomodate the demand. Getting something as essential as a metro pass is not easy, especially near a вокзал where many passengers have just gotten of their trains arriving from other cities. People in these lines are ruthless. You have to be pushy back to ensure that you hold your place in line and are not cut.
The politics of Russian lines goes step further when it comes to the metro escalator. People are to stand on the right if they wish to stand or to walk if they wish to use the left side of the escalator. Usually after going over a переход to transfer from another station, people usually cram up towards the right side of the entrance to the escalator. This is especially true at the переходы where people are transferring to or from the circle line. There are, however, a clever few who move easily on the left as if they are to walk up or down the escalator and may actually do so for some time, but they fake you out and try to cram into whatever small space they can find on a step of an escalator, no matter if there is little room there. Therefore, in defense of your person space, if such a thing exists in Russia, you stand in a staggered manner with one leg on a step of the escalator and another on the step above or below it so as to defend your ability to stand comfortably on the escalator in the spot you rightfully deserve after waiting. This may not seem like such a discomfort, but when you consider the humid heat of the summer or the many layers you may be wearing in winter, the added presence of additional body heat is something that is definitely not welcomed.
After reading these descriptions, you may think that москвичи (Muscovites) are rude and impolite. One thing to keep in perspective is that this is a huge city and people are in a hurry to get where they are going. If you were in a big city like New York, would you be surprised if you found so of the people to be rude... probably not. It is expected that people in big cities will be in a hurry and that they don't want to wait for tourists or the indecisive. Furthermore, while people may be in a hurry, I have found that if you need to ask for directions, people are more than willing to help, even if you are a foreigner. On a few occassions, they even talked at length with me for a few minutes about what I was interested in seeing during my semester of studies. While some may hold that there are too many foreigners in Moscow and that the last thing the москвичи want to do is help another foreigner find his or her way around, from my experience, I have found that only the contrary is true.
Defeating the Babushki - Attempt at your own Risk!
Reflections on Russia - Defeating the Babushki - Attempt at your own Risk!
Note, this is a feat that should not be attempted at home. It can be considered highly dangerous:
Tonight, for the first time, I feel like I have really accomplished something here in Russia. I have defeated the babushka. Бабушка is the Russia word for grandmother, otherwise known as my hostmom. Babushki are notorious for the incredible amounts of food they lay in front of you at any given meal. It is Russian custom that there always be more food available than you can possibly eat. Russians are often not satisfied until you have eaten so much that you are obliged to leave some amount of food on your plate. Tonight's dinner included many courses: a large sliced tomato and green onion salad, a hefty serving of beef, a plateful of variety of steamed vegetables, a plate of sliced bread and to finish it off, a plate of blini, also known as Russian pancakes. I even put peanut butter on the sliced bread to get some extra protein and enjoy a familiar flavor from home. Thank you to Jessica or whomever previously resided here and left such a large jar of peanut better in the apartment. I have to thank my rigorous workout today for the ability to intake such an incredible amount of calories. Now I must turn to my studies as I await the evening ritual of tea and cream filled croissants or another tasty pastry.
Note, this is a feat that should not be attempted at home. It can be considered highly dangerous:
Tonight, for the first time, I feel like I have really accomplished something here in Russia. I have defeated the babushka. Бабушка is the Russia word for grandmother, otherwise known as my hostmom. Babushki are notorious for the incredible amounts of food they lay in front of you at any given meal. It is Russian custom that there always be more food available than you can possibly eat. Russians are often not satisfied until you have eaten so much that you are obliged to leave some amount of food on your plate. Tonight's dinner included many courses: a large sliced tomato and green onion salad, a hefty serving of beef, a plateful of variety of steamed vegetables, a plate of sliced bread and to finish it off, a plate of blini, also known as Russian pancakes. I even put peanut butter on the sliced bread to get some extra protein and enjoy a familiar flavor from home. Thank you to Jessica or whomever previously resided here and left such a large jar of peanut better in the apartment. I have to thank my rigorous workout today for the ability to intake such an incredible amount of calories. Now I must turn to my studies as I await the evening ritual of tea and cream filled croissants or another tasty pastry.
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